How to care for the clothes you love

By Liza Colbeck, founder of IN OUR NAME

Some clothes earn their place in your wardrobe very quickly. The dress you pack for every holiday. The shirt that makes getting dressed feel easy. The print someone always stops you to ask about.

At IN OUR NAME, we want our clothes to become those pieces. We draw our prints by hand, make them in small runs and work with makers we know by name. A great deal of care goes into the making, and a little attention at home helps preserve what first made you love them: the colour, the feel and the way they fit.

Good garment care starts with the label. Wash when a piece needs it, choose a suitable detergent and cycle, dry it as instructed and deal with small marks or repairs before they become bigger jobs. These habits matter for everything in your wardrobe, wherever you bought it.

This guide covers everyday washing, printed fabrics, care by material, stains, storage and simple repairs. The instructions sewn into each garment always take priority over general advice: its lining, trims, construction and finish matter as much as its main fabric. For your IN OUR NAME pieces specifically, see our own garment care guide, which sets out our preferred wash, dry and care approach.

On this page

• How to wash clothes without losing their colour or shape
• How to keep printed clothes and bright colours looking their best
• Should you air dry, tumble dry, steam or iron?
• How to care for different fabrics
• How to remove common stains without damaging the fabric
• How to store and pack clothes so they keep their shape
• Simple clothing repairs worth knowing
• Can garment care reduce waste?
• Garment care questions, answered

How to wash clothes without losing their colour or shape

Does it need washing after every wear?

A dress worn for dinner may only need airing before its next outing. A shirt worn through a hot, busy day is a different matter. Check for marks, odour and perspiration rather than putting everything straight into the laundry basket.

Hang suitable pieces somewhere dry and ventilated after wearing. Treat a small mark locally only if the fabric allows it. Underwear, heavily soiled clothes and garments worn next to sweaty skin need more frequent washing; airing is not a substitute for cleaning them.

Skipping an unnecessary wash saves a job and avoids another round of friction, detergent and drying for the fabric.

What temperature should you wash clothes at?

For many lightly soiled, washable garments, 30°C (86°F) is a useful starting point, provided the care label allows it. The temperature on the label is a maximum, not an instruction to use the hottest wash available. The programme matters too: a gentle cycle and a standard cotton cycle at the same temperature treat clothes differently. [1]

For machines labelled "cold" or "warm," check the actual setting against the garment's instructions. Do not assume a cold wash makes every fabric machine washable, or that it meets every hygiene need.

Which detergent should you use?

Choose a detergent suited to the fabric and colour, and follow its dosage for your load, water hardness and level of soiling. More detergent does not automatically mean cleaner clothes; excess can leave residue.

For washable prints, use a colour detergent without bleach. Wool and silk need products specifically suitable for those fibres. "Natural," "organic" or "eco" on a bottle does not tell you whether it is right for a particular garment. Fabric softener is not essential, and some materials and finishes are better without it.

Give delicate clothes a gentler wash

Separate pale and dark colours, and keep delicate fabrics away from heavy denim, open zips and rough surfaces. Empty pockets, close zips and turn washable printed garments inside out. A mesh bag gives vulnerable pieces extra protection, but cannot make a hand-wash-only garment suitable for a machine.

Leave enough room for the clothes to move, following the machine's capacity for the selected programme. Delicate and wool cycles usually need smaller loads. Take clothes out promptly after washing, smooth the seams and reshape gently without pulling.

How to keep printed clothes and bright colours looking their best

Colour is part of the pleasure of getting dressed. Looking after it means paying attention to washing, friction, heat and sunlight.

Turn washable prints inside out, wash with similar colours and avoid leaving them soaking unless the care instructions specifically allow it. Keep newly washed dark and pale pieces apart while damp, and dry coloured garments away from prolonged direct sunlight.

Be particularly careful with spot treatments. Concentrated detergent or vigorous rubbing can leave a lighter patch that is more noticeable than the original mark. Test a suitable product on a hidden area first and follow its dilution and contact-time instructions.

Never assume that a product described as "colour-safe" suits every print. A crossed-out bleach symbol means no bleach, including oxygen bleach. [1]

How to keep white clothes white

Wash whites separately, treat marks promptly and avoid overloading the drum. Use a detergent appropriate for the garment and rinse it thoroughly. Keep the machine's drawer, seals and filter clean according to its instructions, particularly after loads that shed lint or colour.

White fabric is not automatically bleach-safe. Nor are vinegar, lemon juice or baking soda universal solutions. The fibre, finish and any coloured embroidery or trim still need consideration. Never mix cleaning products, especially bleach with vinegar or other acids.

Should you air dry, tumble dry, steam or iron?

Air drying avoids the heat and tumbling of a dryer, but how you support the garment matters. Hang pieces designed to dry that way; lay knitwear and other garments marked "dry flat" on a clean surface with airflow. Dry indoors in a ventilated space, away from radiators, or outdoors as the label directs.

If tumble drying is permitted, follow the specified setting and avoid overdrying. If the label says not to tumble dry, a low setting is not an exception.

Steaming can help release creases in suitable fabrics, but it is not automatically safer than ironing. Some finishes, trims and heat-sensitive fabrics can be damaged by steam. Follow the label, test discreetly and never steam clothes while wearing them.

When ironing is allowed, work on the reverse where appropriate and use a clean pressing cloth for a delicate surface. Follow any instruction not to iron a print or embroidery. Do not try to press a textured fabric flat simply because it does not look like a crisp cotton shirt. [1]

How to care for different fabrics

The following advice covers a wider wardrobe, not only materials currently used by IN OUR NAME. Fibre names are helpful, but two garments made from the same fibre may still need different care. Read more about the fabrics we choose on our Our Materials page.

How to wash viscose, rayon and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ viscose

Viscose gives a dress or shirt that lovely movement as you walk. It can also become more vulnerable to stretching and distortion when wet, so support it carefully.

Viscose is a type of rayon, a name US shoppers may see on labels. LENZING™ ECOVERO™ is a branded viscose fibre; the brand name does not replace the garment's washing instructions.

If washing is permitted, use the stated hand-wash method or a suitable gentle machine programme. Avoid prolonged soaking, rubbing and wringing. Lift the wet garment with its weight supported, gently press out excess water and reshape without tugging. Follow its drying instructions rather than hanging a heavy wet piece by its shoulders.

Use only permitted ironing or steaming methods. If a piece appears smaller or stiffer after washing, do not force it back to size or assume more heat will fix it. Let it dry as instructed and seek advice if the shape has changed.

How to wash cotton, including organic cotton

Cotton can be a crisp woven shirt, a soft jersey top or a heavily textured fabric. Those constructions do not all behave alike, and organic cotton still needs the same attention to its care label.

For washable pieces, turn colours and prints inside out and use the permitted temperature and cycle. Reshape jersey gently while damp, keeping the neckline and shoulders from stretching. Avoid excessive heat when drying, especially where shrinkage would affect the fit.

Fold stretchy tops and knitwear; hang woven shirts on suitable hangers. Where ironing is allowed, a little moisture can make creases easier to release without repeated heavy pressing.

How to wash and dry linen

Linen creases as you wear it. That relaxed texture is part of its appeal, and you do not have to press every trace of life out of it.

Wash only as the label permits, using a suitable gentle cycle for delicate constructions. Leave space in the drum, remove promptly and smooth seams and hems. Air dry where instructed, keeping coloured linen out of prolonged direct sunlight.

For a crisper finish, iron slightly damp at the permitted temperature. A linen jacket with a lining or internal structure may need professional care even when an unlined linen shirt can be washed at home.

How to wash wool and keep knitwear in shape

Wool often benefits from airing and a rest between wears. It is not self-cleaning, so marks and soiling still need attention.

Wash only if the care label permits it, using a wool-suitable detergent and the specified hand-wash method or wool programme. Avoid rubbing, wringing and an ordinary machine cycle simply because the water is cool.

Support wet knitwear. Gently press out water, roll in a clean towel if suitable, then reshape and dry flat away from direct heat. Hanging a wet jumper can stretch it. Follow the label if it gives a different approved drying method. [2]

For pilling, lay the piece flat and use a suitable knitwear comb or fabric shaver with a light hand. Test first and take particular care with fine, loose or decorative knits. Pulling bobbles off can pull more fibres out with them.

How to care for lyocell and TENCEL™ Lyocell

Lyocell is another regenerated cellulose fibre, often chosen for its smooth feel and drape. TENCEL™ Lyocell is a branded form of it.

Follow the finished garment's label. Where washing is allowed, a suitable gentle cycle, limited friction and careful reshaping help protect the surface. Do not scrub a stain or twist the wet fabric. Dry and iron as instructed; softness is not a reason to assume a piece can tolerate any wash.

How to wash denim

Wash denim when it needs cleaning, with airing between wears where appropriate. Turn it inside out, wash with similar colours and follow the label. New dark denim can transfer dye, including onto pale upholstery and other clothes.

Air dry where suitable and avoid pulling the waistband or knees out of shape. Stretch denim needs particular care with heat. Raw or unwashed denim may have specific shrinkage instructions, so check those before its first wash.

How to care for velvet, corduroy and textured weaves

Raised piles and floating yarns create texture, but can also catch on jewellery, bag straps and rough surfaces. Keep those points of friction in mind when wearing and storing them.

Do not assume velvet or a delicate textured weave is washable. Follow the label and avoid scrubbing the surface. For suitable pile fabrics, a soft clothes brush used gently in the direction of the nap can lift surface dust. Do not brush loose or snag-prone yarns.

Avoid pressing directly onto a raised pile. Use steam only where approved, and give the garment room in storage so its texture is not crushed. If a yarn catches, do not cut it: see the repair guidance below.

How to care for leather and suede

Leather care depends on the finish. A smooth leather jacket, suede bag and coated leather accessory need different treatment.

Follow the maker's instructions and choose a cleaner or conditioner specifically suitable for that finish, testing it discreetly first. Do not apply ordinary leather cream, polish or household detergent to suede or nubuck.

If a piece gets wet, blot gently and let it dry naturally at room temperature, supported in shape and away from direct heat. Store jackets on broad hangers with space around them. Persistent stains, colour loss and deeper scuffs are jobs for a leather specialist.

How to remove common stains without damaging the fabric

A splash of coffee or a mark from lunch need not mean the end of a favourite piece. Start gently, though: a stain and the fabric underneath it both need looking after.

The methods below are for washable garments only, where the care label and treatment instructions allow them. Blot with a clean white cloth, lift away solids and test any treatment on a hidden area. Avoid scrubbing. Do not soak garments marked "do not soak."

Check the mark before ironing or tumble drying, as heat can make some remaining stains harder to remove. For dry-clean-only clothing, delicate silk, leather or an uncertain fabric, leave home remedies aside and tell a professional cleaner what caused the stain. [3]

Sunscreen stains

Lift off excess sunscreen, then use a suitable prewash treatment before laundering as directed. Some sunscreens can leave orange, rust-like marks, particularly with iron in the water. Do not reach for bleach or a household rust remover; ask a cleaner about persistent orange staining. Let sunscreen absorb before dressing to reduce transfer. [4]

Chocolate stains

Lift away solid chocolate without smearing it. Rinse from the reverse with cool water if suitable, then pretreat with a fabric-appropriate detergent or stain remover. Wash according to the label and check before drying.

Blood stains

Rinse fresh blood with cold water where the garment allows it. Avoid hot water, which can set the stain. Use a suitable detergent treatment, rinse and repeat if necessary. An enzyme product may help on compatible washable fabrics, but must not be assumed safe for wool or silk.

Ink and marker stains

Blot without spreading the ink and place an absorbent cloth beneath the mark. Treatment depends on whether the ink is water-based, ballpoint or permanent. Use a product approved for both the ink and fabric, or consult a cleaner. Nail polish remover and lemon juice are not safe all-purpose substitutes.

Fruit, berries, ketchup and tomato sauce

Lift away pulp or sauce and rinse from the back with cool water where permitted. Pretreat with an appropriate laundry product and wash as directed. Repeat a suitable treatment if needed rather than scrubbing the colour out of the fabric.

Grass stains

Remove loose dirt, then pretreat with a fabric-compatible stain remover. An enzyme detergent can help on some washable fabrics; use only if suitable for the fibre. Wash as instructed and inspect the result before drying.

Sweat and deodorant marks

Fresh white marks are often surface residue. On a suitable washable fabric, gently lift them with a clean damp cloth. Older yellow marks may need a fabric-safe prewash treatment before laundering. Let deodorant dry before dressing and wash perspiration out before storing the garment.

Coffee and tea stains

Blot quickly, rinse with cool water where allowed and pretreat before washing. Milky drinks also contain protein and fat, so check that the treatment suits the whole stain. Keep the fabric damp only for as long as its care instructions permit.

Oil, fat and grease stains

Blot away excess and use a suitable liquid laundry detergent or grease treatment before washing. Follow both sets of instructions. Do not pour very hot water onto a delicate garment, and check the stain before applying heat to dry or press it.

Red wine stains

Blot with a clean cloth without pressing the wine further into the fabric. Rinse with cool water where permitted, then use a suitable prewash treatment. Salt is not a reliable cure, and rubbing it into a delicate print risks additional damage.

Mustard, turmeric and other strongly coloured sauces

Lift off the sauce and rinse from the reverse where the fabric allows it. Use a compatible stain treatment promptly. Strong pigments can be difficult to remove; repeated harsh treatments may damage the garment before they remove the mark. Seek professional advice if the colour remains.

How to store and pack clothes so they keep their shape

Hang structure, fold stretch

Use shaped hangers that fit the shoulders of shirts and jackets. Support heavier dresses with their internal hanging loops where provided, and avoid suspending weight from narrow straps. Fold knitwear and stretchy pieces rather than letting their own weight pull them longer.

Give clothes room. Crowded rails crush sleeves and surfaces; high, heavy stacks flatten the pieces underneath. Put everything away fully dry and keep wardrobes clean and ventilated.

Protect wool from moth damage

Clean wool before seasonal storage, following its care instructions, and check wardrobe corners and shelves regularly. Store fully dry pieces in well-sealed, suitable containers or bags. Cedar may be used as an additional deterrent, but is not a guarantee against moths or a treatment for an infestation. [5]

Avoid compressing tailored garments, delicate piles and structured pieces in vacuum bags. Saving space is less useful if it leaves a jacket misshapen.

Pack with the fabric in mind

Fold along natural seams, cushion delicate embellishments and keep sharp accessories separate. Use packing cubes without forcing them shut. Rolling suits some soft garments, but structured jackets and easily crushed fabrics need gentler packing. Unpack and hang or lay pieces out when you arrive.

Simple clothing repairs worth knowing

A loose button or dropped hem is often a small job. Catching it early can keep a piece in regular use, and a local alterations specialist can help when you would rather not do it yourself.

How to sew a button back on

You need a needle, suitable thread, scissors and the button. For a flat button on thicker fabric, a toothpick can help create room underneath.

1. Match the button to its original position, checking it against the buttonhole. Thread the needle and secure the thread on the inside.
2. Sew through the holes several times, following the original stitch pattern. On thick fabric, leave enough space for the buttonhole layer to sit comfortably underneath; a toothpick across the button can act as a spacer.
3. Remove the spacer and wrap thread around the stitches beneath the button to form a short thread shank where needed. Secure the thread on the reverse and trim. Buttons with a built-in shank are sewn through that shank instead.

How to mend a loose hem

You need a fine needle, matching thread and pins. Use an iron only if the fabric permits it.

1. Refold the hem along its original line and hold it in place without stretching the fabric.
2. Hide the knot in the fold. Take a tiny stitch through the main fabric, then a stitch through the folded hem, repeating with small, even stitches.
3. Keep the thread relaxed enough for the fabric to hang naturally. Secure inside the fold and press only as permitted. Stretch fabrics may need a different stitch or professional repair.

How to deal with a snag or pulled thread

Do not cut the loop or tug it from the front. Lay the garment flat and, if the construction allows it, use a fine snag-repair tool or crochet hook from the reverse to draw the loop inside. Gently ease the surrounding fabric to redistribute tension without stretching it.

For fine knits, intricate weaves or a long pull, stop if the yarn resists. A specialist repair is better than turning one snag into a hole.

How to darn a small hole in knitwear

Use a blunt darning needle and yarn of a similar weight, with a darning mushroom or smooth support beneath the hole. Do not stretch the opening or cut away sound loops.

Anchor into healthy fabric around the damage, working parallel strands across the hole. Weave back across them to form a small patch, keeping the tension flexible. Secure the ends on the reverse. Fine or valuable knitwear is often best repaired professionally.

How to reinforce worn denim

Support a thinning area from the inside with a suitable fabric patch extending into sound fabric. Stitch it in place without making the area unnecessarily stiff. An iron-on patch is only suitable when its required temperature is also safe for the garment; follow both instructions. Reinforce it with stitching where appropriate.

When to use a repair specialist

Zip replacements, damaged linings, tailoring, leather repairs and extensive knitwear damage usually deserve an experienced hand. Ask a local tailor, seamstress, cleaner or leather specialist what is possible and agree the finish and cost first. A repair need not be invisible to be worth doing.

Can garment care reduce waste?

Wearing what you already own for longer can reduce the need for replacements. Washing only when needed, choosing suitable lower-temperature cycles and air drying where practical can also reduce laundry energy use. The result depends on the garment and your habits; there is no single percentage that applies to every wardrobe.

For synthetic fabrics, a purpose-designed microfibre-catching wash bag or compatible machine filter can help reduce the fibres released in wash water. It will not catch everything, and an ordinary mesh bag is not the same thing. Follow the product's instructions and put collected fibres in household rubbish rather than rinsing them down the sink. [6]

Repair, rewear or pass it on

If you no longer wear a piece, consider an alteration, resale, a swap or passing it to someone who will. Donate clean, wearable clothing that meets the receiving organisation's requirements.

For items beyond repair or reuse, check a local textile collection's acceptance rules. In the UK, Recycle Now lists clothing and textile options. [7] In the US, use your city or county's guidance; New York City's sanitation department, for example, provides textile donation and recycling information. [8] Elsewhere, check the equivalent local service. Collection does not guarantee that a garment will become new clothing.

Every print has a second life

At IN OUR NAME, care begins before a piece reaches your wardrobe. Our offcuts are transformed into reusable pads for girls in Kenya, giving the fabric another use after the cutting is done.

For the clothes themselves, we hope the first life is a long and well-worn one. Out for dinner, packed for a trip, borrowed by a friend and reached for on an ordinary Tuesday. That is what we make them for.

Garment care questions, answered

Can I wash all my clothes at 30°C?

No. A 30°C wash suits many washable garments, but the care label also specifies the process. Some pieces need hand washing or professional cleaning, and some soiling requires a different hygiene approach.

Can I wash a dry-clean-only dress by hand?

Do not assume so. Water can affect dyes, linings, trims and the garment's shape, even when the outer fabric seems washable. Ask the brand or an experienced cleaner if you need an alternative care method.

How can I stop a printed dress fading?

Follow its label, turn it inside out for washing where appropriate, choose a suitable bleach-free detergent and dry away from prolonged direct sun. Avoid rubbing stains or leaving concentrated treatment on the print. These habits can slow fading, but cannot prevent all changes with wear.

Is steaming always better than ironing?

No. Both heat and moisture can damage certain fabrics and finishes. Use only the method and setting permitted for the garment; steam is not a way around a restrictive care label.